How to Remove Air from Epson DTF Ink Lines After Mesh-to-Nipple Conversion and V2 Damper Installation

Question

I realized after sending my previous message that I may have misunderstood the tubing setup. I bought elbow connectors with one side C2 and one side C3. Is that the converter you were talking about?

Also, since converting from the mesh-style ink intake to the nipple setup, I have a lot of air in my ink lines. I have tried pulling ink slowly from the waste tank, as shown in your video, and I have also tried pulling from the dampers. I raised my CISS tank to let the tubes fill by gravity, but I am still seeing air in the lines. Do you have any other suggestions for getting the air out?

Answer

Based on your description, it sounds like you bought V2 dampers, which use C3 connections. That detail is important because the V2 and V3 damper designs do not connect to the tubing in exactly the same way.

The V3 dampers are more flexible because they can work with both C2 and C3 tubing connections. However, the V2 dampers only have C3 connections, so if your tubing or elbow setup includes a C2 side, then you need the correct adapter or converter to make the connection properly. The converter I was referring to is the small-profile adapter for V2 dampers, which you can find here: Small Profile Adapter for V2 Dampers [https://bchtechnologies.com/products/small-profile-adapter-for-v2-dampers?_pos=1&_sid=2b7db9de1&_ss=r&variant=50439508590899].

If you are using elbow connectors where one side is C2 and the other side is C3, that may be the type of conversion piece you are talking about. However, the important thing is not just whether the elbow physically fits. It must also seal tightly enough that no air can enter the ink path. In a DTF or converted Epson-style ink system, a connector can look like it is installed correctly but still allow tiny amounts of air to enter if the tubing is loose, the nipple is not seated evenly, or the damper connection is not fully sealed.

Since you already converted from mesh to nipples, you normally should not need to raise the tank very high just to remove bubbles. A properly sealed nipple conversion should allow ink to flow into the dampers without introducing air, as long as the CISS tank is not placed too low. In most cases, keeping the tank at approximately the same level as the printhead is enough. If the tank is slightly too low, the printer may struggle to maintain ink flow. If the tank is too high, you may create too much positive pressure, which can cause leaking, flooding, or ink dripping through the printhead.

The fact that you still have a lot of air in the lines after pulling slowly from the waste tank and dampers makes me worry less about simple trapped air and more about a possible air leak somewhere in the ink path. If air keeps returning after you remove it, then the system is probably pulling air in from a loose connection rather than simply holding old bubbles from the installation.

The first area I would inspect is the printhead manifold and nipple connection. After a mesh-to-nipple conversion, the manifold must be tightened and seated evenly. If the manifold is not tight enough, air can enter from underneath the nipple area. This can happen even when the tubing and dampers look correct from the outside. The ink system is under slight suction when the printer pulls ink, so even a tiny gap at the manifold can introduce air into the line.

Check that the manifold is sitting flat on the printhead and that each nipple is sealed firmly. If the manifold is tilted, uneven, or not fully compressed, the ink channel may not hold vacuum properly. Do not overtighten to the point of cracking plastic or damaging the printhead, but make sure the seal is secure and even across all channels.

Next, check each tubing connection from the CISS tank to the damper. Look especially at the transition points: the tank outlet, elbow connector, C2-to-C3 adapter, damper inlet, and nipple area. Air usually enters at a joint, not in the middle of the tube. If one tube has more bubbles than the others, start with that color channel and inspect every connection on that path.

Also check whether the tubing is stretched over the connector or sitting loosely. If the tube was forced onto a connector that is slightly too large, it may develop a small split. If the tube is too loose on a connector that is too small, it may not seal even if it appears attached. In either case, the printer may pull air into the line while the ink slowly drains backward.

When removing air, pulling too aggressively can also make the problem worse. If you pull too hard from the waste line or damper, you can create excessive negative pressure, which may pull air through a weak seal. The correct approach is slow and steady suction. You want ink to move smoothly through the line, not foam or cavitate. If the ink appears foamy or the bubbles multiply while you pull, stop and inspect the seals before continuing.

For the CISS tank position, I would avoid raising the tank too much. If the tank is around the same level as the printhead, the ink should be able to flow into the damper without creating new air pockets. Raising the tank temporarily may help prime a dry system, but it should not be needed as a permanent solution. If the only way to keep ink in the lines is to keep the tank high, that usually means the system is not sealed correctly or the ink path is restricted.

You may also want to inspect the dampers themselves. V2 dampers with C3 connections must be paired with the correct tubing and adapter. If the adapter is not sealing tightly, the damper may continue to draw air. Also make sure the damper membrane is not damaged and that the damper is not cracked around the inlet. A damaged damper can behave like a tiny air leak, especially after repeated installation and removal.

Another thing to check is whether the dampers are fully filled. A small air pocket inside a damper is not always a serious problem, but large pockets or constantly returning bubbles indicate a leak or supply issue. When priming, try to fill the tube and damper gradually. Once the damper is mostly filled and the line is stable, let the system sit for a while and watch whether air appears again. If bubbles come back without printing, the issue is likely an air leak or gravity-related backflow. If bubbles appear mainly during printing or cleaning cycles, the printer may be pulling air through a weak seal under suction.

In short, I would focus on these areas:

1. Confirm whether your V2 dampers are using the correct C3 connection and the proper C2-to-C3 converter or adapter.

2. Check that every elbow, tube, adapter, and damper inlet is airtight.

3. Inspect the printhead manifold carefully, especially underneath the nipple conversion area.

4. Keep the CISS tank around the same level as the printhead instead of raising it too high.

5. Pull ink slowly and gently; do not create excessive suction.

6. If air keeps returning after priming, treat it as an air leak rather than normal trapped air.

My biggest concern from your description is that the printhead manifold may not be tightened or sealed firmly enough, allowing air to enter from underneath the nipples. Once the system is converted to nipples and properly sealed, you should not have to keep raising the ink tank or repeatedly pulling from the waste tank just to keep the lines filled.

Addressing printer issues can be a complicated affair because many of these problems require hands-on inspection. For that reason, we are not able to provide remote troubleshooting, repair suggestions, or direct support for individual printer repairs. We do offer an in-person evaluation and repair service through our local diagnostic facility: BCH Technologies Printer Repair Service [https://bchtechnologies.com/printer-repair-service]. Because of high demand, we operate on a first-come, first-served basis, so it may take a few weeks before we can accept your printer for drop-off. Our services are structured to repair either the whole printer or specific printer parts, with instructions provided on how to proceed. However, we understand that our rates may not be the most economical option for everyone. For that reason, we highly recommend self-help through online research. You can start with YouTube or visit our YouTube channel homepage: BCH Technologies on YouTube [https://youtube.com/@bchtechnologies]. Use the search icon next to "About" on the right-hand side of the menu bar to look for specific repair topics. I receive dozens of questions every day asking about videos for specific issues, and after creating videos for more than nine years, it is difficult to remember every video by topic. YouTube's search function is usually the most efficient way to find the correct video, and it may also suggest helpful videos from other repair channels.

Thank you again for contacting us and for supporting BCH Technologies. I hope this helps you narrow the problem down to the damper connection, adapter fit, tank height, or the manifold seal so you can get the ink lines stable again.