Convert an Epson L1800 (or R1390) to an L805/L800 Printhead: Compatibility, What You Need, and What Can Go Wrong

Question: I have an Epson L1800 with a bad printhead, and I also have an L805 printhead. Can I use your L1800-to-L805 conversion adapter to run the L805 printhead in the L1800?

Answer: Yes-you can use the conversion adapter to run an Epson L805/L800-style printhead in an Epson L1800 (and also in an R1390, since it shares a very similar head carriage/head-cable ecosystem).

  • Yes, the converter/breakout board is designed specifically for L1800/1390 → L805/L800 printhead adaptation.

  • Your situation-a bad L1800 head but having a good L805 head-is exactly the scenario where this adapter can make sense.

Here's the product you referenced:

What the conversion adapter actually does

This type of breakout/riser board is not "magic firmware." It's primarily an electrical/connector mapping solution that:

  • Aligns the flex cable/FFC pinout expectations between the L1800/R1390 carriage wiring and the L805/L800 head pinout

  • Helps make the physical + electrical interface workable so the printer can drive the head

Important cautions before you start (to avoid damage)

Because printheads are expensive and fragile, these are the biggest "don't skip this" items:

  1. Power OFF and unplug before touching any FFC cables
    Hot-plugging head cables is one of the fastest ways to blow a driver circuit.

  2. FFC orientation matters (a lot)
    If a cable is reversed or mis-seated, you can trigger immediate faults-or worse, short something and damage the head/mainboard.

  3. Inspect and clean every connector surface
    Oil from fingers, slight oxidation, or a partially-inserted cable can cause intermittent firing, missing colors, or errors.

  4. Use the correct head type
    "L805 printhead" gets said casually online, but there can be region/manufacturer variations and look-alikes. If it's truly an L805/L800-type Epson head, you're in the right lane.

Common symptoms and error codes you might see (and what they usually mean)

During conversions, people often run into errors that look like they're "software," but are actually cable/head-detection issues. If you see any of these, the first checks are almost always cables, seating, and shorts:

  • Epson "Printer error / Turn off and on again" (generic fatal error)
    Often caused by a head-cable problem, carriage/head driver detection fault, or shorted channel.
    Fix path: Re-seat all head FFC cables, inspect for tears/burn marks, verify adapter alignment, check for ink contamination on contacts.

  • Epson "0x97" (common on many Epson inkjets)
    Frequently associated with a hardware fault: carriage/head, mainboard driver, or sensor-related issues.
    Fix path: Re-check head/FFC/adapter installation, inspect for shorts, ensure the carriage moves freely, and confirm no pinched cables.

  • Epson "0xEA" (carriage jam / CR error on many models)
    Can happen if the carriage can't initialize properly after reassembly, or a cable/part blocks movement.
    Fix path: Check for mechanical obstructions, confirm encoder strip is clean and correctly routed, verify nothing is rubbing after the adapter is installed.

  • Epson "0xF1 / 0xE8" (varies by model/utility, often CR or sensor-related)
    Sometimes appears when the printer can't read the encoder, can't initialize the carriage, or detects abnormal drive load.
    Fix path: Clean/inspect encoder strip + encoder sensor, check carriage belt tension, confirm cables are not dragging.

If you tell me the exact error code and the moment it appears (power-on, head cleaning, initial charge, printing), that usually narrows the cause dramatically-but even without that, the safest starting point is always confirming the physical install first.

Why this conversion can help with "clogs forever" situations

You mentioned clogs and frustration (very common with L1800-class machines). Conversions don't automatically "stop clogs," but they can help when:

  • Your original head is electrically damaged (not just clogged)

  • The "clog" is actually misfiring/nozzle dropout due to head fatigue or burned channels

  • You want a head that's easier/cheaper to source in your region than an L1800 head

That said, many "clog" complaints are upstream:

  • Old/deteriorating dampers

  • Air leaks in ink lines

  • Poor priming

  • Weak capping station or worn wiper

  • Vacuum leaks at the cap seal

So if you convert the head but leave a failing cap/damper system, you can still get dropouts or starvation. The head can only print what the ink system reliably supplies.

Quick checklist before first power-on

  • Head sits flat (no rocking) and is mechanically secured

  • All FFC cables fully inserted and square

  • No ink on contact pads (ink on contacts can create resistance/shorting)

  • Carriage moves freely end-to-end

  • Encoder strip clean, not twisted, and passes correctly through the sensor

  • Capping station and wiper not gummed up (especially if the printer "sat around")


Addressing printer issues can be complicated because these problems are hands-on and often require physical testing and inspection. Because of that, we're not able to provide remote troubleshooting, suggestions, or support for printer repairs. We do offer an in-person evaluation and repair service through our local diagnostic facility: Printer Repair Service (https://bchtechnologies.com/printer-repair-service). Due to high demand, we run first-come, first-served, and it may take a few weeks before we can accept your printer for drop-off. Our services are structured to repair either an entire printer or specific parts, with clear instructions on how to proceed. We also recognize our rates aren't the most economical, so we strongly recommend self-help through online research first. A great place to start is YouTube-especially our channel homepage: BCH Technologies on YouTube (https://youtube.com/@bchtechnologies). Use the search icon next to "About" on the right-hand side of the menu bar to find the most relevant videos. I receive dozens of questions daily asking for specific video links, and after nine years of uploads, it's difficult to remember every single one. Using YouTube's built-in search is the fastest approach-and YouTube may also suggest helpful videos from other creators.

Thanks again for reaching out and for supporting our work. If you move forward with the conversion, take your time with the cable seating and alignment-those small details make the difference between a smooth conversion and a frustrating error loop.