How to Disassemble an Epson SureColor F170: Case, Control Panel, LCD, and Internal Access

The Epson SureColor F170 is a compact dye-sublimation printer widely used for producing transfers for mugs, apparel, coated metal, promotional products, and other sublimation blanks. Although the printer has become popular among small businesses and home-based creators, detailed repair information can be difficult to find.

Fortunately, the F170 has a relatively serviceable internal design once you understand how its exterior panels fit together. Removing the case provides access to the control panel, LCD screen, panel hinges, maintenance tank area, mainboard, cable connections, and other internal components.

This article explains how to remove the Epson F170 housing without forcing the plastic panels or damaging the flat flexible cables. It is written for someone opening this printer for the first time, although experienced repair technicians may also find the disassembly sequence useful.

We also have a video below to show how it is done and help you identify the screw locations, locking tabs, cables, and covers discussed in this article.

Prepare the Printer and Work Area

Before removing any covers, prepare a clean and organized work area. Printer disassembly becomes much easier when you have enough room to rotate the machine and arrange removed components in the order they came off.

Start by turning the printer off with its power button. Allow the shutdown process to finish completely before disconnecting the power cable. Epson advises users to wait until the power light stops flashing before unplugging the printer. Epson also warns against touching the white flat cable inside the printer or manually forcing the printhead to move.

Disconnect the following items:

• Power cable

• USB cable

• Network cable, if installed

• Paper cassette

• Loaded paper

• Any external accessories

Because the F170 uses sublimation ink, protect the work surface with an absorbent mat or disposable covering. Sublimation ink can permanently stain tables, clothing, carpets, and nearby equipment.

Useful tools include a Phillips screwdriver, a small flat-head screwdriver or plastic opening tool, tweezers, and several labeled containers for screws. A magnetic project mat can also help keep screws associated with the correct panel.

Take photographs before disconnecting wires or cables. These reference images will be extremely useful during reassembly, especially if the repair takes more than one day.

Understand the Main Parts of the F170 Housing

The Epson F170 does not contain a scanner, even though its upper cover may resemble the scanner unit found on many multifunction Epson printers. On this model, the upper assembly functions as a printer cover and provides access to the ink tank and internal paper path areas.

The exterior housing includes several major sections:

• Upper printer cover

• Left and right hinge covers

• Ink tank cover area

• Control panel assembly

• LCD and control board

• Metal control-panel shield

• Left-side housing panel

• Right-side housing panel

• Upper frame or top housing

• Rear paper-path component

• Maintenance or waste tank access area

You must remove these components in the correct order because several panels overlap. A panel that appears loose may still be secured by a hidden screw underneath the printer, behind the maintenance tank, or near the side edge.

Therefore, never pull harder when a panel refuses to move. Stop and inspect the surrounding area for another screw or locking tab.

Remove the Upper Cover and Hinge Covers

Begin at the upper cover. Remove the screw securing the first hinge cover, and then lift or slide the hinge cover away from the printer.

When facing the printer from the front, inspect the right side carefully. Removing the hinge cover exposes additional screws that secure the upper cover and hinge structure.

After removing the visible hinge screws, gently lift the upper cover. If it still feels firmly connected, do not twist it. Look for additional fasteners on the opposite side or near the rear edge.

The exact number and position of screws can be difficult to track during a video or repair because several similar screws sit close together. Instead of relying only on a fixed screw count, verify that every mounting point is free before lifting the cover.

A practical method is to move around the perimeter and gently test each corner. A released corner will move slightly, while a corner that remains rigid usually has a screw or tab holding it in place.

Once all fasteners are removed, lift the upper cover away and place it on a protected surface.

Inspect and Replace Loose Control-Panel Hinges

The adjustable control panel uses small left and right hinge components. Over time, these hinges may lose tension, crack, or wear down. When that happens, the control panel may feel floppy, fall downward, or refuse to remain at the selected viewing angle.

The hinge components normally have orientation markings such as "L" and "R." These markings identify the left and right sides.

Before removing the old hinges, photograph their orientation and note the position of any springs, friction surfaces, or pivot points. Installing a hinge backward may prevent the control panel from closing correctly.

Replacing both sides as a pair is often preferable because the remaining original hinge may already have significant wear. Installing one tight hinge beside one worn hinge can also produce uneven resistance.

When searching for replacements, use the complete printer model and part description. For example, search for "Epson F170 control panel hinge" rather than searching only for "printer hinge."

BCH Technologies provides printer repair parts and model-specific technical resources. However, parts availability and documentation may change as additional components are identified and added. When a model search does not produce the needed part, also search using any letters or numbers molded into the original component.

Remove the Ink Tank Area and Control Panel Screws

With the upper cover removed, continue by removing the screws positioned around the ink tank cover area. The printer shown in the video has fasteners located near the corners of this section.

Next, locate the screws securing the control panel. There is typically a fastener near each side of the panel assembly.

Before lifting the panel, inspect the seam between the plastic control-panel housing and the printer body. The panel uses both screws and plastic clips. Removing the screws does not automatically release every locking tab.

Insert a small flat-head screwdriver or, preferably, a plastic opening tool into one side of the seam. Apply gentle pressure until the first clip releases. Then move gradually toward the center instead of prying the entire panel open from one point.

This method distributes the pressure and reduces the chance of cracking the housing.

Avoid inserting the tool too deeply. Cables and electronic components sit behind the control panel, so an opening tool should only enter far enough to release the plastic clips.

Disconnect the Control Panel FFC Cable and Ground Wire

After releasing the clips, lift the control panel slowly. Do not pull it away from the printer because the panel remains connected by an FFC cable and a ground wire.

FFC means flat flexible cable. These thin ribbon-style cables connect the control panel and display electronics to the printer. They are compact and reliable, but their exposed contacts and locking connectors can be damaged easily.

The FFC connector uses a movable locking bar. In the unit shown, the lock is black. Lift the locking bar gently before sliding the cable out.

Do not pull the cable while the lock remains closed. Doing so can tear the cable, separate its contacts, or pull the connector from the circuit board.

Use the following method:

• Support the control panel with one hand.

• Identify the movable locking bar.

• Lift the lock evenly from both sides.

• Hold the cable by its reinforced end.

• Slide the cable straight out of the connector.

The ground wire is secured by a screw. Remove the ground-wire screw and keep it separate from the plastic housing screws. Ground screws may have a different head, washer, thread, or length.

Once the FFC and ground wire are disconnected, the entire control panel can be moved to the workbench.

During reassembly, insert the FFC cable completely and evenly before closing the lock. A crooked or partially inserted cable can cause a blank screen, unresponsive buttons, intermittent operation, or startup errors.

Separate the Control Board From the Panel Housing

After removing the control panel, you can access the LCD control board and button assembly.

Begin by removing the metal shield or cover. Depending on the production revision, this shield may be secured by screws, clips, or a combination of both.

The metal cover protects the control board and also helps maintain the panel's structure. Therefore, avoid bending it. A distorted shield may press against the board or prevent the plastic housing from closing correctly.

Once the metal shield is removed, inspect the circuit board for:

• Sublimation ink contamination

• Corrosion

• Damaged button switches

• Loose connectors

• Cracked solder joints

• Burned components

• Torn FFC cables

• Impact damage

If ink has entered the control panel, do not power the printer on for testing until the affected electronics have been inspected and cleaned. Conductive contamination can create shorts between small circuit-board contacts.

Also, do not assume the LCD is defective simply because the screen is blank. A blank display can result from a loose FFC connection, damaged cable, control-board failure, power issue, mainboard problem, or failed LCD module.

Remove the LCD Screen From the Control Panel

The LCD module is held behind a silver-colored metal frame. Two white plastic tabs prevent the frame from sliding out.

Hold the control-panel assembly securely. Press the two white tabs downward while applying gentle pressure to the metal frame. Once the tabs clear the frame, slide the cover out in the intended direction.

Do not bend the frame upward. It should slide once both retaining tabs have been fully released.

After removing the metal frame, lift the LCD carefully and inspect its cable and connector. Avoid pressing on the display surface because concentrated pressure can damage the LCD layers.

If you need a replacement screen, identify the display by the exact part number printed on the module. In the printer shown, the marking is ICA-FU13C. However, production revisions can vary, so confirm the number on your original screen before ordering.

Searching by the display code is often more effective than searching only by the printer model. Manufacturers sometimes use the same LCD module in several printer families, while aftermarket listings may omit one or more compatible printer models.

Similarly, do not order an FFC cable based only on an estimated pin count. Match the following characteristics:

• Printed cable number

• Number of conductors

• Cable length

• Cable width

• Contact orientation

• Contact position on each end

• Reinforcement shape

Two cables can have the same number of conductors and still be electrically or physically incompatible.

Remove the Maintenance Tank and Hidden Screws

The maintenance tank, sometimes informally called the waste tank, collects ink discharged during printhead cleaning and other maintenance operations.

Locate the retaining thumbscrew and remove it. Then slide the maintenance tank out carefully, keeping it level to reduce the chance of ink leakage.

After removing the tank, inspect the compartment for a hidden screw. This screw secures part of the exterior housing and must be removed before the side panel can come off.

You may also find another housing screw underneath the printer. Place the printer on a padded surface before rotating or tilting it. Do not place excessive pressure on the control-panel mounts, output tray, paper guides, or ink tank section.

Because the printer contains liquid ink, avoid leaving it tilted for an extended period. Return it to its normal position as soon as you finish removing the bottom screw.

While the maintenance tank is out, inspect the compartment for pooled ink, damaged seals, or staining. A small amount of staining may result from normal servicing, but wet ink outside the intended tank connection can indicate a leak or an incorrectly installed maintenance tank.

Remove the Rear Paper-Path Component

Before taking off the right-side panel, remove the detachable rear paper-path component identified in the video as the duplexer.

Pull the component straight out using its designated grip points. Do not pry against the rollers or internal paper guides.

Removing this assembly exposes panel fasteners and provides additional clearance around the rear of the printer.

This is also a good opportunity to inspect the paper path for:

• Torn sublimation paper

• Adhesive residue

• Ink contamination

• Foreign objects

• Broken guides

• Worn rollers

However, avoid cleaning rubber rollers with aggressive solvents. Strong chemicals can harden, swell, or damage the roller surface.

Remove the Right and Left Side Panels

After removing the maintenance tank, hidden bottom screw, and rear paper-path component, begin with the right-side housing panel.

Release the panel gradually from its clips. Work from one edge to the next instead of pulling the entire side outward at once.

Next, remove the screws associated with the left-side panel. Some screws are located at the top, while others may be hidden near the side or underneath the printer.

The upper housing can be especially confusing because visible top screws are not the only fasteners holding it in place. Additional screws near both side edges must also be removed.

If the top panel lifts in the center but remains fixed on one side, a side screw is probably still installed. Likewise, if the panel moves at the front but not at the rear, inspect the rear edge and nearby paper-path area.

Plastic clips can become brittle with age, heat exposure, or chemical contamination. Therefore, apply only enough force to release each clip.

Lift Off the Top Housing

Once all top and side fasteners have been removed, lift the upper housing slowly.

Watch for cables, foam pads, grounding contacts, and plastic guides that may remain attached. A wire routed through a panel opening can make the housing feel as though a screw is still installed.

As the housing comes away, note how the plastic edges overlap. Some sections must lift upward before moving outward, while others slide beneath neighboring panels.

Place the removed top housing upside down on a soft surface. This prevents scratches and protects small plastic posts from being crushed.

At this stage, the F170's internal structure becomes much easier to examine. You should have improved access to the mainboard area, wiring harnesses, power-related components, ink delivery sections, paper-feed mechanism, and control-panel connections.

Access the Mainboard and Internal Components

Removing the outer case gives you access to the electronic and mechanical systems needed for deeper troubleshooting.

The mainboard controls many printer functions, including motor operation, sensor monitoring, communication, print data processing, and coordination with the printhead electronics.

Before disconnecting any mainboard cable, take several clear photographs from different angles. Label each connector and its original location.

FFC connectors can look nearly identical, so do not rely on memory alone. Incorrectly inserting a cable can damage the cable, connector, mainboard, printhead, or other electronic components.

When inspecting a suspected mainboard failure, look for:

• Burned components

• Corrosion

• Liquid damage

• Damaged FFC connectors

• Missing connector locks

• Cracked solder joints

• Blown protective components

• Discolored cable contacts

• Damage near motor or printhead circuits

A mainboard that appears burned should not be repeatedly powered for testing. Continued power attempts can increase the damage or affect connected parts.

Compatible boards from related printer models may sometimes provide a repair path, but physical fit alone does not guarantee compatibility. Firmware, regional configuration, ink settings, printhead type, sensor arrangement, and connector assignments can differ.

Therefore, verify compatibility carefully before installing a board from another model. In many cases, repairing the original board preserves the correct configuration and reduces compatibility problems.

BCH Technologies also works with printer components and mainboard-level repairs. When sending a board for service, include the printer model, symptoms, error messages, events that occurred before the failure, and any previous repair attempts.

Follow a Careful Reassembly Process

Reassembly generally follows the reverse order, but several details deserve special attention.

First, confirm that all wires sit inside their original guides. A cable trapped under a metal shield or plastic housing can develop an intermittent short or break after the screws are tightened.

Next, inspect every FFC cable before reconnecting it. The contacts should be straight, clean, and free of tears. Insert each cable squarely to the marked depth, and then close the locking bar.

Reconnect the control-panel ground wire before installing the final panel covers. Never omit a ground connection simply because the printer appears to work without it.

Before tightening all screws, check the panel alignment. Start screws by hand and leave them slightly loose until neighboring panels fit together correctly. Then tighten them evenly.

Do not overtighten screws installed into plastic. Excessive torque can strip the plastic post or crack the surrounding housing.

After installing the maintenance tank, confirm that it sits fully inside its compartment and that the thumbscrew is secure. Reinstall the rear paper-path component, paper cassette, and external cables.

Finally, inspect the printer for leftover screws before applying power. If a screw remains, do not assume it was unnecessary. Compare the printer with your photographs and check each removed component.

Test the Printer After Reassembly

Place the printer upright on a level surface and reconnect the power cable. Keep the printer accessible during the first startup so you can disconnect power if you notice smoke, a burning smell, abnormal mechanical resistance, or severe error behavior.

Watch the control panel during startup. Confirm that the screen illuminates and the buttons respond normally.

Then perform basic checks:

• Confirm that the printer reaches its ready screen.

• Check for error messages.

• Verify that the control panel stays at the selected angle.

• Print a nozzle check.

• Confirm that paper loads correctly.

• Inspect the printer for ink leaks.

• Confirm that all exterior panels remain secure.

• Test USB or network communication if those systems were disturbed.

A blank screen after reassembly usually points to an improperly seated control-panel FFC cable, an open connector lock, a reversed cable, or damage to the cable contacts.

If the buttons work but the display remains blank, inspect the LCD connection separately. If neither the buttons nor screen work, inspect the main control-panel connection and ground wire first.

A More Serviceable Printer Than It First Appears

The Epson SureColor F170 may look difficult to service because its screws and locking tabs are distributed across the upper cover, side panels, control panel, maintenance tank compartment, and underside of the printer. However, the internal layout becomes approachable once the exterior housing is removed in the correct sequence.

The most important principles are simple: work slowly, organize the screws, photograph every cable, unlock FFC connectors before pulling the cables, and never force a panel that still feels attached.

Removing the case provides access to the control-panel hinges, LCD screen, display board, maintenance tank area, side panels, mainboard, wiring, and internal mechanical systems. As a result, this disassembly process creates a solid starting point for diagnosing loose panels, damaged displays, liquid contamination, electronic failures, and other internal problems.

Use the video below as a visual reference while following this article. The video makes it easier to recognize the panel seams, hidden screws, white LCD retaining tabs, ground connection, and black FFC locking bars.

BCH Technologies continues to develop repair resources, replacement parts, and technical information for printers such as the Epson SureColor F170. Always verify the model number, component markings, cable orientation, and production revision before ordering or installing a replacement part.