Epson DTF Printer Fatal Error E4 / 05: No Fan, No White Ink Circulation - Detailed Troubleshooting Q&A

Question

I'm working on a relatively new DTF-converted Epson printer (about 9 months old) that's only been used to print plastic film on a roll. I've gone through the suggested visual inspections: I checked the encoder wheel, cleaned the gap in the encoder sensor, and carefully inspected most of the FFC (flat flexible) cables and electrical connections without removing the outer case. The only cables I didn't reach are the ones going toward the ink cartridges behind a plastic panel on the right, which I didn't want to force off and break.

Using the Epson Adjustment Program, the first four tests consistently return error E4, and the fifth one shows error 05. The GET STATUS function reports a Fatal Error, and even after successfully running the Paper Feed Test, checking status still shows Fatal Error. I also reset and initialized the waste pad counter with no change.

After powering the printer on, here's the situation:

• The printer powers up

• The main fan does not run

• The white ink circulation panel does not turn on

• The ink light is flashing and doesn't respond when pressed

I'm new to this particular printer and DTF setup, though I'm comfortable working on PCs and have done a bit of printer work. I like learning and don't mind a challenge, but I want to make sure I'm not missing something simple.

1. Is there anything else I can do within the Epson Adjustment Program? It seems like the RIP software shouldn't affect these issues, but I'd like confirmation.

2. What would you suggest I do next, step by step? I do have multimeters, but I'm not very confident using them, so really basic instructions would help.

3. While the printer is down, what should I do to prevent clogging or other problems in the white ink system for DTF?

4. If I need to start replacing parts, can you recommend how to find the right items on your website?

Answer

 

1. What your current symptoms and error codes (E4, 05, Fatal Error) really mean

From your description, the printer is essentially in a "hard fault" state:

• Printer powers on

• No fan activity

• White ink circulation panel doesn't power up

• Ink light is flashing and doesn't respond

• Epson Adjustment Program: first four tests show E4

• Fifth test shows error 05

• GET STATUS = Fatal Error

• Paper Feed Test completes but checking status still shows Fatal Error

That combination strongly suggests that the main board (or power section feeding it) is detecting a serious hardware issue. In many Epson-style systems:

• E4 is a generic critical error code indicating that something important in the mechanical or electrical system is out of spec (could be a sensor, motor, or power rail problem, depending on the conversion and firmware).

• 05 often signals a specific test failing (for example, a subsystem that should initialize but doesn't, such as a motor, pump, or sensor circuit).

• Fatal Error after multiple tests typically means the printer's internal self-check cannot complete its startup sequence safely, so it refuses to run fans, circulation, or print functions.

Because you're seeing E4, 05, and repeated Fatal Error messages even in the service utility, this is much less likely to be a simple "dirty sensor" or software glitch and much more likely to be:

• A power rail that isn't coming up

• A shorted or failed board (mainboard, power board, or white ink circulation board)

• A cabling or connection issue that makes the board "think" a critical component is missing or shorted

In other words: you've already ruled out a lot of the easy fixes. You're not missing something obvious in a menu.

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2. Is there anything else useful in the Epson Adjustment Program? Does the RIP software matter?

You've already done the key things the Epson Adjustment Program can help with:

• Checked and re-checked error codes (E4 and 05)

• Reset and initialized the waste pad counter

• Ran diagnostic tests like Paper Feed Test

• Verified that GET STATUS is consistently returning Fatal Error

Once you're seeing the same E4 / 05 combination and persistent Fatal Error across multiple tests, it usually means:

• The main board is seeing a hardware fault it cannot override.

• The Adjustment Program can report this state but cannot "heal" it-its role is primarily to read/clear counters, perform calibrations, and run subsystem tests when hardware is functioning.

Regarding the RIP software:

• You're correct: RIP software should not be the cause here.

• If the printer cannot complete its own internal startup (no fan, no circulation, Fatal Error in service mode), the RIP never gets a chance to interact with the machine.

• RIP issues show up as communication problems, color/profile problems, or job handling errors, not as complete hardware lockouts at power-on.

Conclusion for this part: At this stage, there's nothing more productive to do inside the Adjustment Program. Your time is better spent checking hardware, power, and connections.

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3. What to do next - step-by-step hardware checks (with basic multimeter guidance)

You've already done a lot of careful, methodical work. The remaining steps are mainly about verifying power and connections to the subsystems that are not starting: the fan and the white ink circulation system.

3.1. Finish inspecting FFC cables near the ink cartridges

You mentioned there's a plastic panel on the right side that seems like it might come off, but you skipped it to avoid breaking anything. That's understandable.

General tips for that panel:

• Use a plastic pry tool, old credit card, or guitar pick-not a screwdriver-to gently feel for clips.

• Clips are often on the back and bottom edges of these covers; apply light outward pressure rather than twisting hard.

• Once removed, visually inspect:

  • FFC cables for kinks, partial insertion, or burn marks

  • Any small daughter boards connected via FFC or ribbon cables

  • Harnesses going to the white ink circulation panel and any nearby fans

You're mainly looking for:

• Cables not fully seated (even slightly crooked FFCs can cause fatal errors)

• Obvious scorching, corrosion, or cracked connectors

If everything looks good, we move to basic electrical checks.

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3.2. Basic multimeter test for power to fan and white circulation board

Since you mentioned you're still getting comfortable with multimeters, let's keep this very simple. We're not chasing exact voltage numbers, just "no power" vs. "some power."

Safety first:

1. Unplug the printer from the wall before handling internal wiring or boards.

2. Locate the connector(s) that feed:

   • The main fan

   • The white ink circulation board (this may be a small separate board with its own connector from the main or power board).

These connectors are typically:

• 2-wire or multi-wire plugs

• Going from the main/power board to the fan or circulation module

Then:

1. Plug the printer back in and power it on.

2. Set your multimeter to DC Volts (V), not ohms (Ω) or continuity.

3. Put the black probe on a metal part of the printer chassis (ground) or on the ground/negative pin of the connector (often black wire).

4. Put the red probe on the positive wire for the fan or circulation board.

Now observe:

• Case 1: Always 0 V

  • That suggests the power rail feeding that circuit is never turning on.

  • Causes might include a blown fuse on the power board, a failed MOSFET/transistor, or the mainboard deciding the circuit is unsafe and never enabling it.

• Case 2: Brief voltage spike then drops back to 0 V

  • This often means the board tries to power the circuit but immediately sees a short or protection condition and shuts it down.

  • In that case, either the fan/circulation board is shorted, or something on that rail is overloading it.

You do not have to be perfect with the probes-just try to keep them from touching each other, and take your time. Even a simple report like "I saw no voltage at all" vs. "I saw a quick blip then nothing" is very helpful for diagnosis.

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3.3. Isolating a possible short (only if you're comfortable)

Sometimes a single bad board or device pulls down the entire power rail and causes the mainboard to throw a Fatal Error and stop everything.

If you're comfortable:

1. With the printer unplugged, disconnect the fan and/or white ink circulation board from the main/power board.

2. Plug the printer back in and power it on.

3. See if anything changes:

   • Does the error code on the Adjustment Program change?

   • Does the ink light behave differently?

   • Do you hear any relay clicks or brief attempts to move something that you didn't hear before?

If the behavior changes after unplugging a particular board, that board becomes the prime suspect.

If nothing changes at all, that points more strongly toward:

• The mainboard itself

• The power board

• Or a deeper wiring/power fault

You're absolutely not missing some simple menu setting here; at this point it really is hardware detective work.

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4. How to protect your white DTF ink from clogging while the printer is down

White DTF ink is notorious for settling and clogging, especially when circulation is not running. Since your printer currently isn't turning on the fan or white ink circulation, this is an important concern.

4.1. Short downtime (a few days to a week)

If you think the downtime will be relatively short:

• Agitate the white ink daily

  • Gently shake or rock the white ink bottle or external tank once a day.

  • If you have external tanks, don't violently shake-slow tilting or rocking is safer to avoid air bubbles.

• Control the environment

  • Keep the printer in a room-temperature environment (avoid freezing or high heat).

  • Avoid dusty or humid extremes that can affect ink and electronics.

4.2. Longer downtime (several weeks or more)

If it looks like this might stretch into several weeks, the safest long-term approach is:

• Flush the white channel

  • Use appropriate cleaning solution to flush the white ink lines, dampers, and head.

  • Leave the system filled with cleaning solution rather than white ink while the printer is out of service.

This is extra work now, but leaving thick white DTF ink sitting in the head and dampers for a month or more with no circulation will almost certainly lead to heavy clogs, sometimes to the point that the head becomes uneconomical to recover.

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5. Finding and choosing replacement parts on our website

When it comes to replacement parts-especially for DTF conversions-things can get confusing quickly. Different conversion kits, different board revisions, and different base printer models all look very similar.

Here are some practical tips:

5.1. Search by function, not just model

Instead of searching only by the original printer model, try searching our site by function, such as:

• "DTF white ink circulation board"

• "DTF pump"

• "DTF fan"

• "[Base model] mainboard" if you know the underlying Epson model

This often narrows down options faster than model name alone, because DTF setups may use boards that are compatible across several base printers.

5.2. Use detailed photos plus email

Since you've already taken and shared photos (which is extremely helpful), you can:

1. Take clear, well-lit photos of:

   • The mainboard

   • Any separate power board

   • The white ink circulation board/panel

   • Connectors going to the fans and pumps

2. Email those photos to us with a note about:

   • The base printer model

   • The DTF conversion kit (if known)

   • The symptoms (E4, 05, Fatal Error, no fan, no circulation)

We can then compare your photos to parts we stock and guide you toward the closest match, or let you know if a certain piece is custom or not available separately.

5.3. Likely suspects based on your symptoms

Given:

• E4 and 05 errors

• Fatal Error even after basic tests

• No fan and no white circulation panel

The usual suspects are:

• Power distribution components (fuse, MOSFET, or small power-supply sections feeding the fan/circulation circuits)

• The white ink circulation board itself if it's shorted or dead

• Less commonly, a damaged mainboard (for example, from a surge or short)

You've actually walked into a fairly advanced failure as your first major project on this model. The fact that you've already done careful inspection, used the Adjustment Program correctly, and provided detailed notes puts you ahead of many experienced techs. You're not missing something "beginner-level" here.

If you decide to take a few simple voltage readings and finish checking the FFCs behind that side panel, feel free to send updated observations along with photos of any suspicious areas. That additional detail can help us narrow down which board or part is the most likely culprit.

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6. About in-person repair vs. remote troubleshooting

Dealing with printer failures-especially DTF conversions-is inherently hands-on and can become quite complex. Because so many issues require physical inspection, test tools, and sometimes trial-and-error part swapping, we're limited in what we can safely and responsibly do over email or messages.

For that reason, we're not able to provide full remote troubleshooting or step-by-step live repair support. Instead, we offer in-person evaluation and repair through our local diagnostic facility, which you can learn more about on our BCH Technologies printer repair service page (https://bchtechnologies.com/printer-repair-service). Due to high demand, we operate on a first-come, first-served basis, so it can take a few weeks before we're able to get your printer on the bench once it's dropped off.

Our services are set up to repair either a complete printer or specific assemblies, and we provide clear instructions on how to proceed. That said, we know our pricing isn't always the lowest option. So we strongly encourage owners to explore self-help wherever possible, using online resources.

A great place to start is our BCH Technologies YouTube homepage (https://youtube.com/@bchtechnologies). On that page, use the search icon (next to "About" on the right side of the menu bar) to look up topics like "DTF," "white ink circulation," "Epson fatal error," or your base printer model. Over the last nine years, we've created a lot of videos, and I receive dozens of questions every day about specific topics-so using YouTube's built-in search is the fastest way to locate relevant content. YouTube may also recommend helpful videos from other channels that could assist you.

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Thank you again-truly-for your patience, thoroughness, and willingness to learn. The fact that you're carefully documenting each step and looking out for your wife's DTF production while you troubleshoot says a lot. I hope this gives you a clear path forward and some reassurance that you're on the right track, even with a tough fault like this. If you gather more observations (voltages, cable checks, or photos), feel free to share them so we can help you refine the next steps.