Epson XP-15000 DTF Conversion: Ink Not Flowing, Missing Colors, and How to Prime the System Safely (Manifold, Dampers, Capping Station)

Question: After converting my Epson XP-15000 to DTF and resealing the printhead, the printer powers on fine-but ink won't flow and some colors don't show on the nozzle check. What should I check, and how can I fix it without damaging anything?

I converted an Epson XP-15000 into a DTF printer and tried a different manifold/damper setup first. After that, I attempted to print and no ink came out. I later switched everything back to the original manifold/damper style after watching your YouTube videos and followed your waterproofing steps. I used your Printhead Protector Guards V2, silicone washer seal pads, and silicone sealant, and the printer recognizes the printhead normally when powered on.

The problem is that ink still won't flow correctly-some colors are missing on test prints-and I'm worried I may have a leak at the rubber seal between the printhead and the manifold. I'm hesitant to disassemble it again because I don't want to make things worse (this is already my second printer after my first one had a board failure). I'd like help figuring out what's wrong and also want to know if you reseal printheads and what that might cost.

Answer: 

Now, onto the issue. When an XP-15000 "registers" the head but won't pull ink (or only pulls some colors), the printer's electronics may be fine-this is usually a pressure, seal, or flow-path problem. Think of it like plumbing: if suction can't be created at the cap, ink will not move through the dampers and head the way it should.

1) Start with the capping station (this is the #1 cause of "no ink flow" after head work)

Your first checkpoint is the capping station seal and waste line suction.

Quick suction test (most important):

• Locate the waste tube (the line ink drains through during cleanings).

• Use a syringe to gently draw suction from the waste tube.

• While drawing, the cap must be able to seal against the printhead.

What the results mean:

• You draw mostly air with little/no resistance:
  This means the head is not sealed to the cap, the cap is not open/positioned correctly, or there's a leak (cap lip damaged, cap not seated, warped cap top, or head not parked fully). In this scenario, the printer can run cleanings all day and still won't pull ink.

• You can't draw anything at all (hard stop):
  The capping station or waste line may be clogged, which blocks suction completely and prevents priming.

• You feel resistance and can pull fluid/ink:
  Great-this means the cap/waste path can generate suction, and ink flow problems are likely upstream (dampers, manifold seal, or airlocks).

Important note: On DTF conversions, the cap has to work harder because DTF ink is thicker than standard dye/pigment ink. A marginal cap that "sort of works" with regular ink often fails with DTF.

2) Confirm the printhead is not clogged before chasing seals

If you converted to nipple feed, you have a useful advantage: you can test flow more directly.

Nipple push-through check (gentle):

• With the head accessible and tubing/nipples installed, you can carefully push a small amount of appropriate cleaning fluid, distilled water, or ink through the nipple feed to confirm the head is not completely blocked.

• The purpose is not to force-flush aggressively-just to verify the path isn't dead-ended.

If liquid will not pass at all: you may have a clog, a blocked manifold passage, or the damper path isn't opening.

3) After reinstalling, verify cleaning actually moves ink into the waste line

Once the head is installed and parked correctly, do a regular cleaning (not a strong/power clean right away).

What you should see:

• During/after cleaning, you should be able to see ink exiting into the waste tube (even if it's faint at first).

If you see nothing at all: that points right back to cap seal, cap clog, waste line blockage, or a major air leak.

4) If some colors show but others are missing, you likely have an airlock or one channel not primed

When you get partial nozzle check results (for example, some colors print but others are blank), it often means:

• A damper isn't primed,

• One channel is pulling air,

• The manifold-to-head seal is leaking on specific channels,

• Or the cap seal is inconsistent, so suction is weak and only the "easier" channels pull.

This is where your park-and-prime method is perfect-especially for DTF.

5) Park-and-Prime (recommended for thick DTF ink and stubborn startup)

Here's the safe priming routine (with added interpretation so you know what each outcome means):

1. Park the printhead on the capping station

• Turn the printer on and let the printhead settle naturally onto the capping station.

• It is safe to do this with the power on.

1. Attach syringe to the waste line

• Connect a syringe and tube to the printer's waste line.

1. Start by gently drawing 4-6 ml

• You should feel slight resistance as suction builds.

Outcome interpretation:

• Only air, no resistance:
  The printhead isn't parked correctly, the cap isn't sealing, or the cap lip is leaking.

• No movement at all (complete resistance):
  Cap station/waste path likely clogged-must be cleared before priming can work.

• Some resistance + you hear damper membrane crinkle:
  That's a good sign; it suggests the dampers are responding and the nozzles are opening under suction.

1. Slowly draw up to the full 2 ml mark and hold

• Slowly draw until the black rubber passes the 2 ml mark and hold suction for 10 seconds.

• The "hold" helps pull ink through without shocking the system.

1. Run a regular cleaning afterward

• Use the printer's standard cleaning routine.

Avoid these common mistakes:

• Don't do back-to-back cleanings without rest.

• Avoid strong/power cleaning within 12 hours of priming (DTF ink and dampers need time to stabilize, and aggressive cleaning can overheat the head or flood the cap/waste system).

6) About the rubber seal between the printhead and manifold (your suspicion is valid)

Your concern about the rubber seal/gasket between the manifold and printhead makes sense. If that seal is:

• Pinched,

• Uneven,

• Over-compressed,

• Contaminated (silicone, lint, or dried ink),

• Or slightly misaligned,

...then suction will preferentially pull air instead of ink, and you'll see exactly what you described: no ink at all, or some colors missing on nozzle checks.

Practical clue:
If one or two colors are consistently missing (often a specific channel), that can be a seal issue localized to that part of the manifold, or a damper that's not opening/priming.

7) A quick word about "error codes"

In your message, you didn't list any specific Epson error codes (for example, codes related to ink system, carriage, or hardware). If your XP-15000 is showing an error code on-screen, that's still important to note-because ink-flow issues usually don't generate a formal code unless there's a sensor or mechanical fault. For now, based on what you shared, this looks like a flow/prime/seal problem rather than a coded hardware error.

Addressing printer issues can be a complicated affair because so much of it is hands-on-seals, suction, alignment, and small leaks are difficult to confirm remotely. Because of that, we're not able to provide remote troubleshooting, suggestions, or support for printer repairs. We do offer an in-person evaluation and repair service through our local diagnostic facility: Printer Repair Service (https://bchtechnologies.com/printer-repair-service). Due to high demand, we operate first-come, first-served, and it can take a few weeks before there's an opening to drop the printer off. Our services are structured to repair either the whole printer or specific parts, with clear instructions on how to proceed. We also want to be transparent that our rates aren't the most economical-so we strongly recommend self-help through online research when possible. A great place to start is YouTube, including our channel homepage: BCH Technologies on YouTube (https://youtube.com/@bchtechnologies). Use the search icon next to "About" on the right side of the menu bar to find topic-specific videos. I receive dozens of messages each day asking if we have a video for a specific situation, and after nine years of making videos, it's tough to remember every single one-YouTube search is the fastest way to locate the closest match, and YouTube may also recommend helpful videos from other creators.

Thank you again for reaching out, and thank you for supporting our work and our YouTube community. I hope the suction checks and park-and-prime steps help you pinpoint whether this is a capping station seal issue, a waste-line/cap blockage, an airlock in a channel, or a manifold gasket leak.