
Epson L1800 Prints Blank Pages After Head Cleaning? Here's What You Should Check First
- By Ellen Joy
- On Apr 05, 2025
- Comment 0
Question:
My Epson L1800 was printing beautifully until I performed a routine head cleaning. After that, the printer showed two blinking lights. I replaced the mainboard and briefly had a double-printing issue that resolved after a reset. However, the color started fading, and now the printer only outputs blank pages. The printhead seems unclogged, and I’ve already replaced the cable connecting the head to the board. There are no error codes, and I’ve tested the F1 fuse on multiple mainboards. What should I try next?
Answer:
Step 1: Use Epson’s Adjustment Program to Retrieve Error History
Before replacing more hardware, I highly recommend checking the printer’s error log using the Epson Adjustment Program, a diagnostic tool commonly used by Epson technicians (and sometimes shared by DTF resellers).
Here's how to do it:
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Open the Adjustment Program and select the correct USB port from the drop-down list.
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Go to “Particular Adjustment Mode.”
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Scroll down and select “Printer Information Check.”
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Click “Check” for a list of recent error codes—look at the top entry.
If you get any error codes and want help understanding them, simply Google "BCH Epson Error" to find our guide to interpreting Epson’s Triple Secret Error Codes.
You can also follow our short video guide on how to use this program here:
▶️ How to Retrieve Error Logs on Epson Printers
(https://youtube.com/shorts/FPZzpyYuZLE)
Tip: It's possible your original mainboard was fine, and the error was just a waste ink pad counter needing reset through the Adjustment Program.
Step 2: Check for a Clog or Ink Flow Issue
Your description—colors fading over time until only blank pages print—strongly suggests an ink delivery or printhead priming issue, especially when using DTF ink, which is much thicker than standard ink.
Here’s how to manually prime the printhead:
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Park the printhead on the capping station (turn the printer on and let it park automatically).
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Connect a syringe and tube to the waste line.
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Draw about 1.5 ml of air slowly. You should feel resistance:
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If you only get air, the printhead may not be seated properly, or the capping station may not be sealed.
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If there’s no flow, the capping station might be clogged.
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Hearing the damper membrane crinkle is a good sign that the ink is reaching the nozzles.
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Continue slowly up to 2 ml, holding the vacuum for 10 seconds.
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Run a regular cleaning cycle, but don’t do back-to-back cleanings, and avoid aggressive cleanings for 12 hours.
Step 3: Inspect and Service the Capping Station
Since ink doesn’t seem to reach the paper even with a functional mainboard and clean printhead, it may be time to inspect or service your capping station. If it's not sealing properly, priming won't work, and you’ll keep getting blank sheets.
Here are some helpful videos we’ve made:
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🔧 Removing & Installing the Capping Station (https://youtu.be/_cZEkmgIZYc)
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💨 Unclogging the Capping Station (https://youtu.be/WbY_6O1-w2c)
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🧼 Capping Station Maintenance Tips (https://youtu.be/5yjq3ZN0qv8)
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🛠️ Repairing the Capping Station (https://youtu.be/5UC2IMu9V90)
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🧪 Rewiring the Capping Station Tubes (https://youtu.be/J9im3s8UJfo)
Check out our Complete Video Guide (https://bchtechnologies.com/products/video-capping-station-assemble-disassemble-guide-for-l1800-1390-artisan-1430-and-1400) for an in-depth, step-by-step breakdown of the entire capping station (including gear assembly).
Step 4: Check the F1 fuse and the Driver Chip
Inspecting the F1 Fuse on the Mainboard
The F1 fuse is a small but critical component on your printer’s mainboard. If your printer is experiencing power delivery problems to the printhead or seems completely dead in specific areas, this fuse may be the culprit. Here’s how to approach it:
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Locate the F1 Fuse: It’s usually labeled as "F1" directly on the mainboard. You might need magnification to see it clearly.
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Visual Check: Look for burn marks or a visible break. Unlike larger glass fuses, these surface-mount fuses are tiny and often don’t show visible damage when blown.
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Continuity Test: Use a multimeter in continuity mode. Place the probes on both ends of the fuse. A beep means the fuse is good; no sound indicates it’s blown.
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Replacement: If blown, replace it with a matching fuse—same amperage and voltage rating. You can often source these from electronics suppliers or salvage from donor boards.
Check the SOP28 Driver Chip
If the F1 fuse is intact and your printer still has issues—especially in delivering signals to the printhead—the driver chip may be damaged. One common replacement chip is the SOP28 E09A7218A (218A) Printer Driver Chip for Epson printers like the L1800, Artisan 1430, and 1390.
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Symptoms of Driver Chip Failure:
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One or more ink channels not firing
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Printhead heating but not spraying ink
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Burn marks or thermal damage near the chip
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Testing the Chip: If you have a scope or logic analyzer, you can compare signal outputs. But realistically, chip failure is often confirmed through replacement when all else checks out.
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Replacement Process:
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Desolder the existing SOP28 chip carefully using hot air or solder wick.
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Clean the pads thoroughly.
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Solder the new driver chip in place. Use flux and proper alignment to avoid shorts.
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If soldering isn’t your strength, we strongly recommend taking the board to a repair shop or contacting us for assistance.
Step 5: Still Not Working? Time for a New Printhead
If your printer fails to output anything after the above steps, it may be time to replace the printhead. When doing this, it’s best practice to:
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Replace all ink in the tanks.
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Flush or replace the ink tubes.
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Service or replace the capping station.
Ensure your new printhead is aligned and sealed, and give it time to prime using the method described above. Here’s a video for reference on unusual mechanical noises like screeching, that may indicate further internal issues:
Working on printers, especially models like the L1800 with DTF conversions, involves a lot of hands-on inspection and trial and error. Because of this, we can’t provide one-on-one remote repair support. However, we offer local printer diagnostics and repair services at our repair center (https://bchtechnologies.com/printer-repair-service). Our repair queue operates on a first-come, first-served basis, and wait times can span several weeks. While our service isn’t the cheapest, it’s thorough, and we can repair either whole units or individual printer parts.
If you prefer DIY solutions, our best advice is to explore our YouTube homepage (https://youtube.com/@bchtechnologies) and use the search icon near the “About” tab. We’ve created hundreds of videos over the years, and chances are your issue is already covered. YouTube may even recommend related videos from other great sources.
Thanks again for reaching out. Your thoughtful question helps others in the community, and we hope this guide brings your printer back to life!