DTF Printer Prints No Color After Cable Replacement: Park & Prime, Check the F Fuse, and Inspect the Driver Chip

Question: I replaced the cables after watching your YouTube video, but my printer still won't print any color. What else should I check?

I recently watched one of your videos on YouTube and it was super helpful when I replaced the cables in my machine. The reason I replaced them was because the printer would not print any color. After replacing the cables, it still does not print any color. Do you recommend checking anything else? Any help is appreciated. I can pay you for your time. Thank you.

Answer: 

Now, when a printer suddenly prints no color at all (not just one channel missing), the issue is usually in one of two categories:

1. Ink delivery isn't being established (head isn't properly primed / cap top isn't sealing / waste path is blocked), or

2. An electrical "enable" problem occurred (a fuse, head driver, board, or cable/connection issue that prevents the head from firing).

Because you already replaced cables and the symptom didn't change, the next best path is: (1) confirm ink can actually be pulled through the head (Park & Prime), then (2) verify the power/protection circuit (F fuse), then (3) inspect the driver chip path.

1) Do a proper "Park & Prime" to confirm the head can draw ink

DTF ink is thicker than standard dye ink, so even if everything is "installed correctly," the system may not self-prime. This is the quickest way to prove whether the printhead is able to open and draw ink through the dampers.

How to park the printhead safely

• Turn the printer on.

• Let the printhead move and settle naturally onto the capping station (the rubber cap).
  This is safe to do with the power on-just let the printer finish moving and rest on the cap.

Prime through the waste line (syringe method)

• Attach a syringe + tube to the printer's waste line (the line that normally carries waste ink to the bottle).

• Gently pull on the syringe.

What you should feel and what it means

• Start by drawing 4 to 6 ml:

  • You should feel slight resistance.

  • If you feel some resistance and you hear/feel the damper membrane crinkle, that's a good sign-it often means the nozzles have opened and ink is being encouraged through.

• If you only draw air:

  • The head may not be parked/seated correctly on the cap, or

  • The capping station seal is leaking (warped cap top, dried ink, bad rubber lip, misalignment, cracked line).

• If you feel complete resistance and can't pull anything:

  • The capping station/waste path may be clogged (cap top or waste tubing blockage), which prevents priming until the blockage is cleared.

Finish the prime

• After the initial 4-6 ml, slowly draw until you reach the 2 ml mark on the syringe (make sure the black rubber plunger passes the 2 ml mark), then hold for 10 seconds.

• After that, run the printer's regular cleaning routine.

Important cleaning cautions (DTF especially)

• Avoid strong/power cleaning within the first 12 hours after priming (DTF ink can be harsh when over-cleaned).

• Don't do back-to-back cleanings without rest time. Repeated cleans can overheat or stress the head driver circuitry and can also flood the cap top.

Why this step matters
If the Park & Prime doesn't pull ink properly, chasing electrical issues is premature-because the head can't print what it can't receive. Conversely, if Park & Prime works and you confirm ink movement, but you still get no color, then the situation starts to look more electrical (fuse/driver).

2) Check the "F fuse" (common reason for "no channels fire")

After cable swaps or any work inside the printer, it's possible to blow a protective fuse-especially if a cable was slightly mis-seated, pinched, installed at an angle, or connected while charged. On many Epson-based mainboards, these are labeled with an "F" marking (often "F1," "F2," etc.). People commonly refer to this as the "F fuse."

Symptoms that match a blown F fuse

• Printer behaves normally (moves, cleans, acts "alive"), but prints blank/no color.

• The problem does not change even after replacing ink components or cables.

What to do

• Unplug the printer from power.

• Locate the mainboard and identify the small fuse(s) labeled with F.

• Check continuity using a multimeter (a blown fuse usually reads open/no continuity).

If the fuse is blown

• Replacing the fuse may restore printing, but it's critical to find the reason it blew:

  • A shorted cable,

  • A damaged head cable,

  • A shorted head/driver circuit,

  • Ink contamination on connectors,

  • Incorrect installation / misalignment.

If you replace a fuse without correcting the cause, it may blow again immediately.

3) Inspect the head driver chip path (and the connections feeding it)

If ink is successfully primed and the fuse checks out, the next suspect is the driver chip / head driver circuitry. This is the part of the electronics that actually energizes the nozzles. If it's not receiving power, not receiving the firing data, or is damaged, you can see "no color" even though ink delivery is fine.

What to check first (before assuming it's bad)

• Re-seat the printhead cables carefully:

  • Confirm the cable is fully inserted and straight.

  • Inspect the contacts for ink, corrosion, crease damage, or burn marks.

  • Make sure the cable is not reversed (when applicable) and not folded too sharply.

• Inspect connectors on both ends (board side and head side) under good lighting:

  • Any blackened pins or melted plastic suggests overheating/shorting.

• Look for signs of liquid/ink on the board:

  • Even a small amount of conductive ink residue can cause shorts.

When the driver chip is likely at fault

• Ink is primed and flowing,

• Fuses are good,

• Cables are confirmed correct and clean,

• Yet the printer still produces completely blank output or no nozzle activity across all channels.

Depending on the model and conversion setup, "driver chip" diagnosis can involve board-level testing, and sometimes the remedy is board repair/replacement rather than a simple adjustment.

About error codes

In your message, you didn't mention any specific error codes (for example, a numeric code on-screen or a blinking pattern that translates to an error). If you are seeing any, those codes matter a lot-some codes point directly to head voltage, carriage communication, or CR/board faults. If your printer shows any error code(s), make sure to reference them exactly as displayed when you continue troubleshooting.

Addressing printer issues can be tricky because these problems are hands-on and often require physical inspection, testing, and part swapping in a controlled way. Because of that, we're not able to provide remote troubleshooting, suggestions, or support for printer repairs. We do offer an in-person evaluation and repair service through our local diagnostic facility: Printer Repair Service (https://bchtechnologies.com/printer-repair-service). Due to high demand, we operate first-come, first-served, and it may take a few weeks before we're able to take your printer in for drop-off. Our services are structured to repair either the entire printer or specific parts, with clear instructions on how to proceed. That said, we acknowledge our rates aren't the most economical-so we strongly encourage self-help research online as well. A great starting point is YouTube, especially our channel homepage: BCH Technologies on YouTube (https://youtube.com/@bchtechnologies). Use the search icon next to "About" on the right-hand side of the menu bar to find videos by topic. I receive dozens of messages every day asking for the exact right video, and after creating videos over the past nine years, it's tough to remember every single one-so YouTube search is the fastest approach. Plus, YouTube may suggest helpful videos from other creators that match your exact situation.

Thanks again for reaching out and for supporting what we do. I truly appreciate you watching the videos and taking the time to share your results-please don't get discouraged. With "no color" issues, a careful Park & Prime followed by the F fuse and driver chip checks usually reveals where the breakdown is.