Can You Mix New DTF Ink With Existing Ink in Your Tanks, or Do You Need a Full Flush?

Question

I just purchased DTF ink from your website. Do I need to completely clean out the DTF ink I'm currently using, or can I mix your DTF ink with what I already have in my tanks?

Answer

In most cases, you do not need to completely wash out your current DTF ink before switching to ours-especially if the ink you're currently using is fresh, printing correctly, and has been in regular use. Typically, it's fine to top off and transition gradually.

That said, whether you should mix inks depends on a few important factors. Here's a clear way to decide:

When it's usually OK to mix (or "top off")

You can generally mix inks if:

• The current ink is not old or separated (no sludge, clumps, or thick gel).

• Your printer has been printing recently and the nozzles are behaving normally.

• You are staying within the same general ink type: DTF pigment ink (not sublimation, not dye, not DTG textile ink).

• You don't see major issues like frequent clogging, banding, or weak whites that might indicate contamination already.

In these situations, I usually don't recommend washing out the system, because flushing can introduce air into lines, waste ink, and sometimes create more problems than it solves.

When you should flush or at least drain/clean first

A full flush (or at minimum, draining tanks/dampers and refilling clean) is strongly recommended if any of the following are true:

1) The old ink is very old or "stale."
This matches what I often see in the field: if ink has been sitting a long time, pigment settles and the binders can change consistency. Mixing fresh ink into stale ink can cause:

• Thickened flow

• Damper clogging

• Poor white circulation (white is the most sensitive)

• Sediment that gets pulled into the head

2) You don't know what brand/type was previously used.
Different DTF ink manufacturers may use different pigment dispersants and resins. Sometimes they mix fine, and sometimes they can react poorly, leading to:

• "Curdling" / jelly-like particles

• Filter and damper blockage

• Nozzle dropouts that worsen over time

3) You're having print problems already.
If you're currently seeing symptoms like banding, missing nozzles, weak density, or your white channel is inconsistent, it's better to treat it like contamination risk. Adding new ink won't fix a compromised system-it can just dilute the symptom while keeping the root cause.

4) The printer sat unused (especially with white ink).
White ink settles fast. If the printer sat even a couple of weeks without proper agitation/circulation, the bottom of the tank may contain heavier pigment. Mixing new ink into that doesn't remove the settled layer-it can stir it up and send sediment into the dampers/head.

A safer "middle path" if you want to minimize risk

If you're unsure whether the inks are compatible, you don't necessarily need a complete teardown flush. You can do a controlled transition:

• Agitate/mix your current tanks (if your system allows it) to ensure there's no heavy settling.

• Drain the tanks as low as safely possible (don't run lines dry).

• Refill with the new ink and print a few purge patterns / solid fills to help cycle the blend through.

• Pay special attention to white, because it's the most likely to clog if anything is off.

Quick compatibility checks (practical tips)

• Smell/appearance check: If the old ink smells unusually sour/chemical or looks stringy, chunky, or separated, don't mix-flush.

• Sediment check: If you see heavy pigment at the bottom that won't remix smoothly, don't mix-flush.

• Filter/damper history: If your dampers are older or you've had prior clogs, switching is a good opportunity to refresh them-old dampers + unknown ink blends = common clog combo.

What about error codes?

This particular question doesn't include any printer error codes (for example, Epson-style errors like 0x97, 0x9A, or service/call-service codes). If your printer is throwing a specific code while you're switching inks, that can change the best next step-because some codes relate to ink delivery, pump/cap issues, or sensor faults rather than the ink itself.

Addressing printer issues can be tricky because these problems are hands-on and often depend on what we can physically inspect. Because of that, we're not able to provide remote troubleshooting, suggestions, or support for printer repairs. We do offer an in-person evaluation and repair service through our local diagnostic facility: Printer Repair Service (https://bchtechnologies.com/printer-repair-service). Due to high demand, we operate on a first-come, first-served basis, and it may take a few weeks before we're able to accept your printer for drop-off. Our services are structured to repair either the whole printer or specific parts, with clear instructions on how to proceed. We also understand our rates aren't the most economical, so we strongly recommend self-help through online research. A great place to start is YouTube, especially our channel homepage: BCH Technologies on YouTube (https://youtube.com/@bchtechnologies). To find the most relevant videos quickly, use the search icon next to "About" on the right-hand side of the menu bar. I receive dozens of questions every day asking if we have a video for a specific topic, and after creating videos for the past nine years, it's hard to remember every single one-so YouTube's search function is the fastest method. It may also recommend helpful videos from other channels that apply to your issue.

Thanks again for choosing BCH Technologies and for your support. If you decide to switch over without flushing and you notice any sudden changes (especially in white ink performance), stop and address it early-catching ink flow issues quickly can prevent bigger clogs later.